经济学人为什么老挝人喜欢吃蚂蚁蛋汤

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经济学人杂志《TheEconomist》几乎是所有英语考试的题源,包括考研、四六级、专四专八、高考、NECCS、CATTI翻译、托福雅思、上海市中高级口译等。如果能熟读并深刻理解《TheEconomist》每一篇文章的主旨和态度,那么几乎等于提前掌握了这些考试的出题方向。

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UrbanLaotianspayhandsomelyforant-eggsoup

Butwillyoungpeopleretainatasteforthisnutritioustradition?

“Youwouldn’tservethistotheking,”saysDalaphonePholsena,arestaurateurinVientiane.Beforeheraretwosmallbowlsofant-eggsoup,afavouritedishofthelatesummerinLaos.Initarechunksofwhitefish,meatymushroomsanddozensofsplayedandlifelessants.

Bobbingatthesurfaceisthepiècederésistance:clustersofivory-whiteeggsthatlookliketinywhitebeans.Theyburstinthemouthlikefishroe,butwithamoreacidictang.

MsDalaphoneconsidersherselfadefenderofthedishestraditionallyeatenbyLaos’ssubsistencefarmers—ofwhichtherearestillmany.Ant-eggsoupisaclassic:bothanimportantsourceofproteinandanemblemofrurallife.

Theeggsarelaidbyredweaverants,whichnestinmangotreesandcoconutpalmsinAprilandMay.Abraveforager—theants’bitesareliketheprickofaneedle—usesasticktotearopenthenest,catchingtheeggs(andlotsoflividants)inabucket.

Wearingasfewclothesaspossible,thebettertobrushmaraudingantsfromtheskin,andhoppingfromfoottofoottoevadetheincensedinsects,theharvesterthenshakestheeggsfromtheleaves.Ruralfolktendtomixthishard-wonprizeintoomelettes,saladsorsoups,addingadistinctive,sourpop.

Nowadays,however,manypackuptheeggsandshipthemtomarketsinthecityinstead.Laosisurbanisingfast.Inaboutafifthofitspopulationlivedincities;todayoverathirddoes.Newurbanitesoftenexpressnostalgiaforthecountryside.

Onweekendsmanymiddle-classLaotiansdrivetothefamilyvillagetohelptendthericepaddies.Failingthat,asteamingbowlofant-eggsoupcanbealmostastransporting.“It’ssomethingthatremindsthemoflifebefore,”saysGie,a30-somethingprofessional.“Youthinkof50or20yearsago,whenyouwereinthevillage,withyourmum.”

Akiloofeggscanfetchasmuchas,kip(16)inVientiane,thecapital.Thatisahandsomesumforapoorruralforager.Butevenasthepriceofeggsclimbs,peoplelikeMsDalaphoneworryaboutthedish’sfuture.Urbanyouthgrowupeatingpizzaandwontonsandareoftensqueamishaboutgulpingdownbugs.

Askedaboutant-eggsoup,Gie’s12-year-oldsonreplies,“Itlooksawful,notatastymeal.”Heprefersfriedriceandnoodles,easilyorderedbyphoneorwhippedupinaninstantfrompacketsimportedfromChinaorThailand.

ChefssaytraditionalLaocuisine,includingant-eggsoup,needsacharmoffensivetosurvive.Areprievemay



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